The Unwritten Rules of Visiting San Sebastián, Basque Country's Culinary Heart

Even for Spaniards, Basque Country can feel foreign. With a millennia-old language, a culture all its own, and a penchant for unique dining rituals, the learning curve is steep. That doesn’t mean it’s not fun to learn, though. San Sebastián is one of the capitals of Basque Country, with irresistibly beautiful beaches, pretty old towns, and an incredible food scene. I’ve lived in San Sebastián since 2010 and have written a book on pintxos, and I see the same mistakes made over and over again by visitors at the bars. As in much of Europe, tourism is a sensitive subject, so knowing the unwritten rules (and even a bit of the local language, Euskera) will help avoid misunderstandings and unlock the city’s joyful, trademark love of the table. Read on for my best tips on the etiquette of indulging in the small bites at the famous pintxo bars, as well as more insider insights into how to act like a real donostiarra. Even just referring to the city by its Basque name will get you bonus points with the locals. San Sebastián is Donostia in Euskera, the co-official local language. Yes, it looks nothing like the Spanish, as is the case with most words in this millenia-old, mysterious