Slop it like it’s hot: the rise of build-your-own takeaway salad bowls

How did this pick-n-mix salad-and-protein sludge become a typical working lunch? Few things have killed the leisurely lunch like capitalism, but to really see this in action, the food court of London’s financial shadowland, Canary Wharf, is a good place to start. Wandering the warren of Prets and Itsus are Deliveroo riders and suits-on-the-clock. And they’re usually carrying the same thing: a nice big bowl of slop. A slop bowl is the universal term for a mishmash of pick-your-own dishes assembled and sold in fast-casual spots that have become the de facto working lunch. The contents vary (they tend to feature Asian and eastern Mediterranean dishes) but as the name suggests, it is always served in a bowl, and by the time you’ve got to your desk, has usually become slop. They can cost anything from £7 to £25 depending on what you add – much like coffee, the slop bowl is as customisable as a modular shelving unit from Ikea. This sounds like a lot. But we also live in an era where a salad bowl from Pret can cost £12, so maybe it’s not. The slop bowl at Atis, a small chain of “bowl restaurants” that opened last year, begins with leaves, or padding, spooned into a cardbo