Pine tar: The surprising, smoky goo that Finns can't stop eating

Once used to waterproof boats and treat infections, this smoky plant byproduct is now used to flavour everything from schnapps to bread. But how does it taste? I've been in the sub-Arctic city of Oulu, Finland for only a few hours when I'm caught under a torrent of late summer rain. I take refuge in a cafe and order a coffee and sugar-dusted pannukakku (a thick pancake). The waiter asks me, "What flavour? We have almond, tar, blueberry..." I'm certain I've misunderstood: "Did you say tar?" He nods nonchalantly. Welcome to Oulu, the northern Finnish city where terva (pine tar, usually translated in English simply as "tar") is on the menu. Produced by heating pine wood without oxygen, this thick, dark substance flavours everything from lager to ice cream, lending a distinct, rich smokiness. "It's an intense flavour, so a little goes a long way," says Matti Moller of the Arctic Food Lab, an initiative showcasing northern Finland's culinary culture. "But it's brilliant to experiment with in everything from fish to desserts." To Finns, pine tar's aroma has long been associated with wooden boats, summer cottages and sauna scents. So what's the recent culinary appeal? Hugging the northern