Dumplings vs. machines: Inside China’s latest food fight | CNN

The making of dim sum — the bite-sized delicacies hailing from southern China — is all about craftsmanship. Take har gow, or shrimp dumplings, for example: finely chopped ingredients placed on translucent wheat starch wrappers, sealed with just the right amount of finger pressure to ensure they can hold up in the steamer but also don’t feel too starchy when eaten. There’s also siu mai (pork dumplings topped with crab roe) and cheung fun (steamed rice rolls dipped in sweet soy sauce), which are served delicately in small bamboo steamer baskets and shared among diners like Spanish tapas. Many dim sum fans would argue that the best are made by chefs with the steadiest hands, nimblest fingers and the best attention to detail — not machinery. So when many teahouses in China have turned increasingly to automated production lines in recent years to save costs, the southern city believed to be the birthplace of dim sum is pushing back. Authorities in Guangzhou have introduced a new regulation requiring restaurants in the metropolis of 19 million to keep patrons informed about how they make their dim sum. Starting May 1, teahouses have to disclose whether their dim sum is handmade

May 1, 2026 → May 18, 2026